Food Review: Vox gets basic with Sweetgreen’s new offerings
Vox woke up on Saturday morning with a raging hangover. All those shots of pumpkin spice Burnett’s had this blogger writhing around in pain, looking for something to ease the torment. While a classic PSL (that’s pumpkin spice latte, for the uninformed) would usually do the trick, the Starbucks at Leavey is sooo far away from Nevils—getting there would have required significant movement. This blogger needed to drown some sorrows in calories. Organic, low-carb calories, of course.
So Sweetgreen it was, and lucky Vox got to try three of the joint’s new seasonal salads.
Apples, Pears + Organic Cheddar Salad is a bit of a misnomer. Yes, all three of those things were present in the salad, but it was about 80 percent greens. The kale and lettuce were tasty—plenty of crunch and freshness—but there wasn’t nearly enough fruit to justify the item’s menu title. Plus, the pear-to-apple ratio was seriously skewed—like nine apple pieces for every square of pear. The cheddar cheese was ice cold and reminded Vox of eating an eraser. Pass.
The Roasted Turkey + Fall Vegetable Salad was much, much better. It’s pretty much a Thanksgiving salad bowl: sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts, and cranberry dressing all made appearances, and thankfully in large amounts. The Brussels sprouts tasted earthy and had a satisfying crunch, while the sweet potatoes were tender and altogether adequate. Healthy slices of juicy turkey complemented the roasted veggies, and while the cranberry vinaigrette was a bit too sweet, it left a pleasant, acidic aftertaste on the foods it coated. Yum!
The Curry Cauliflower + Quinoa Bowl found its undoing in one devious ingredient: sriracha. That garlicky chili sauce has its place in the culinary catalog, and it’s not in this salad. It was off-putting and seemed sickly sweet alongside the cucumber tahini yogurt dressing. The quinoa was delicious—warm, moist, and nutty—but it was hard to find a bite that wasn’t drenched in sriracha. The same went for the lightly spiced cauliflower, roasted chicken, and every other ingredient. Maybe Vox is just behind the times, but sriracha mania has gone too far.
Photo: Shawn Honnick via Flickr